Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city comes as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these stories and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
